Oswald Rivera

Author, Warrior, and Teacher

Tag: Sugar

Hamantashen – The Big Megillah


Purim is one of my favorite Jewish holidays. It is a fun event where those of the faith feast and send gifts of food to friends and the needy. I like holidays like these, the ones where you indulge rather than fast or abstain or deny yourself. Give me the fun holidays any day. It is celebrated on the 14th of Adar (usually late March) as reckoned by the Jewish calender; and it commemorates the time when the Jewish people living in Persia were saved from extermination by the beautiful Queen Esther, who was wife to Ahasuerus, King of Persia. She foiled the plan of the villainous Haman, the scheming advisor to the king, and who had planned to kill the Jews in the land.

When I was a young man back on the block, I had a Jewish friend who would always comment or complain about something being a “big Megillah,” that is, a thing being important and of note, or just a big bother. I did not know what he was talking about and it was years later when I discovered that the Book of Esther, read during Purim, is also commonly known as the Megillah (which means scroll). But I did discover hamantashen early on, and I love those suckers.

Hamantashen (or hamantaschen) is a triangular fruit-filled pastry traditionally served during Purim. It gets its name form the evil character Haman, who wore a three-cornered hat. Initially, hamantashen pastries were filled with poppy seed fillings. But over time the filling became more diverse so that today you have hamantashen filled with fruit preserves (especially apricot) cherry jam, pie filling, and even chocolate. Yet my favorite filling has always been and remains, prunes. That’s right: prunes. There’s something about the things that’s addictive in hamantashen.

So, below, is my favorite prune-filled hamantashen recipe. It you don’t like prunes, that’s your problem, use another filling.

PRUNE FILLED HAMANTASHEN

1 cup granulated sugar
1 stick margarine
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
3 eggs
1 teaspoon grated lemon peel
5 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder

Prune Filling:

2 pounds, prunes, pitted and chopped
1 cup raisins
1 cup chopped walnuts
1/2 lemon, juice and rind
3 tablespoons honey

1. In a large mixing bowl, combine the sugar and margarine, blending thoroughly. Add vanilla, eggs, and lemon peel, and blend. Stir in flour and baking powder; and mix into a dough. (If dough is too sticky to handle, can add up to 1/4 cup additional flour). Cover and refrigerate for about 2 hours or until dough is firm
2. Meanwhile, prepare the filling by rinsing the prunes and raisins, placing in a pan with enough water to cover and then boiling for about 5 minutes. Combine with the rest of the filling ingredients in a food processor or blender and puree until smooth. (This may have to be done in batches).
3. Roll out half of dough at a time, to about 1/4-inch thickness, on a lightly floured surface (try not to get holes in the batter). Cut into 3 or 4-inch rounds using a cookie cutter. Spoon one teaspoon filling into the middle of each round. Fold up the sides to make a triangle, folding the last corner under the starting point, so that each has a corner that folds under. Pinch the edges together firmly. This pinwheel style makes for a better triangle shape and reduces the chance of the filling spilling out during baking.
4. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place hamantashen about 2 inches apart on a lightly greased baking sheet or large baking pan and bake from 15-20 minutes, or until golden brown (be careful that the filling does not boil over). Remove to a wire rack and let cool. When the hamantashen come out of the oven the dough may be slightly soft, but it will firm as it cools off.
Yield: about 5 dozen hamantashen.

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Tembleque – Coconut Supreme

Those of us from a Caribbean heritage have a thing about coconuts. We drink the coconut milk, snack on coconut meat, mix it in our rum drinks, and use it in our cooking, mainly in our desserts. And the prime dessert dish of all is tembleque, or coconut custard. It’s rich, it’s creamy, it’s a delight. And a hell of a bother to cook. It’s the only recipe (apart from pasteles) in my tome, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Perseus Book Group), that takes time to prepare. But, believe it, my friends, it’s worth it.

First of all, to do the thing right, you need fresh, ripe coconuts. These can be acquired in any Caribbean, Asian or Indian market. You need to drain them, grate the coconut meat, cook it and strain it. Agreed. It’s time consuming. But it’s a hell of a lot better than the pre-packaged tembleque mix in stores, and much healthier. It doesn’t have all the preservatives or chemicals in it.

If you still don’t want to invest the time, you can shortcut by using canned coconut milk, which is readily available in most supermarkets. Omit the coconut part and use with the rest of the ingredients noted in the recipe given below. But, for the genuine taste of pure, luscious tembleque, nothing beats the original.

TEMBLEQUE (COCONUT CUSTARD)

2 large ripe coconuts
1/2 cup cornstarch
2/3 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Ground nutmeg
Ground cinnamon

1. Pierce coconut (a big nail is best) and drain liquid into a small bowl. Reserve.
2. Split coconuts and remove white meat from shell. Separate the brown skin from coconut meat.
3. Break the coconut meat into pieces, rinse under cold water and grate finely.
4. Place grated coconut in a bowl. Add enough water to reserve coconut liquid so that it measures 3 1/2 cups. Bring liquid to a boil and add grated coconut.
5. Drain coconut in a colander or strainer, pressing with the hands to extract coconut milk into a bowl.
6. Heat one cup water. Add same coconut shreds as before and strain again into the same bowl that holds the coconut milk. Discard shreds.
7. In a large pot or saucepan, combine cornstarch, sugar, salt and vanilla. Stir in coconut milk, a little bit at a time and blend well.
8. Cook on moderate heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until mixture thickens.
9. Reduce heat to low and stir until mixture boils.
10. Remove from heat and pour into 8 slightly wet, individual molds or a large round pan or mold.
11. Let cool and invert into molds, serving dish or platter. Sprinkle with nutmeg and cinnamon and serve.
Yield: 8 servings.

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Plantains – Part II

In the my last entry we discussed green, unripe plantains. The famed twice-fried tostones. Now it’s time for the ripe plantains, what we call amarillos, yellows, because as they ripen they acquire a magical yellow color; as they ripen further they get darker, until they become almost black which, at this point, they are inedible. But when they reach that ripe richness, their taste is sweet, since they have natural sugars.

Ripe plantains may be cooked as is, and they are delicious. Some recipes call for caramelizing them with honey or molasses. I find their natural flavor is good enough. Back when I was groping up, we would serve them with eggs, scrambled or sunny side up. Today we serve them with almost any meal when it calls for something sweet. They are not a dessert, although some people serve them as such. They are part of a whole meal, and are good anytime.
Inclusive of all of this, we give two recipes for cooking the amarillos. One way is to boil them; and the second method is to fry them. Take your pick.

PLATANOS AMARILLOS (SWEET RIPE PLANTAINS)

Method I:
3 ripe plantains

1. Take 3 ripe plantains and cut in half crosswise at a slant.
2. Boil in water (combined with 1 tablespoon salt) until tender (about 4-5 minutes).
3. Drain and let cool. Cut a slit along the length of the halves and peel. Cut into diagonal slices 1 to 2 inches thick and serve.
Yield: 12 t0 15 slices.

Method II:
3 ripe plantains
Vegetable oil for frying.

1. Peel 3 ripe plantains. Cut into diagonal slices about 1/2-inch thick and 3 inches long.
2. Deep-fry in hot oil until slightly browned and tender (about 3-4 minutes). Drain on paper towels.
Yield: 12-18 pieces.


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