Oswald Rivera

Author, Warrior, and Teacher

Tag: Vinegar (page 2 of 2)

Gazpacho con Ajo Blanco

Gazpacho is the perfect summer dish, especially when it’s just too hot to cook. This famed Spanish soup is of Moorish origins. Remember that the Moors (Muslims of Northern Africa ) occupied Spain for over seven centuries. Some etymologists suggest that the word, gazpacho, derives from the Arabic word for soaked bread. Others say that it may have come from the word caspa, which means residue or fragment—as in the residue or fragments of bread used in the original recipe.

Andalusia is renowned as the home of gazpacho, especially in the province of Malaga. It probably originated as a soup of soaked bread, olive oil, and garlic. Today the Spaniards would call this an ajo blanco, or garlic soup. And this was the most common gazpacho until the introduction of the tomato to the European continent, which resulted in the chilled tomato concoction of today.

Today, Andalusian gazpacho is made with ripe tomatoes, bell peppers, cucumbers, garlic, moistened bread, and ice water. But I’ve gone back to the original gazpacho as derived from its Moorish influence.

GAZPACHO CON AJO BLANCO

1 cup untrimmed fresh bread, cubed
3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely minced
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup olive oil
Cold water
4 tablespoons chopped scallions

1. Soak the bread in water. Drain and squeeze to extract excess moisture.
2. In a mortar (preferably earthenware), pound the garlic until crushed.
3. In a wooden bowl, mix the garlic, bread, and salt, and stir in the olive oil.
4. Add cold water as desired, to get the smoothness of a soup. Recall this the original gazpacho, which is served at room temperature, garnished with chopped scallions. But, if you want, you can serve it chill after an hour or so in the fridge.
    Yield: 4 servings.

 Note: You can modify this recipe for Malaga-Style Gazpacho by adding 2/3 cup crushed peeled almonds and 1/2 teaspoonr red wine vinegar before adding the cold water.

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Carrucho

For the Chinese it is an affinity for abalone. For the Italians it’s scungili. We Puerto Ricans call it carrucho. What we are talking about is the flesh found in conch shells. This dish exemplifies the different mindset of different cultures. To most North Americans the conch shell is used solely for ornamentation. To Latinos—as well as people of the Mediterranean and Asia—this mollusk is used for food and ornamentation.

Conch meat cam be found in any Hispanic or Oriental fish market. Most fishmongers order it on request. You can purchase it already cleaned or you can save pennies and do it yourself. The excess film that covers the skin has to be removed. This can be done best under cold running water.

In the Caribbean, caruccho sandwiches are very popular. You can take the dish given below and place it between two slices of bread, or on a roll, on even on a bagel. Or you can serve it with white steamed rice or small red potatoes. It should be noted that the recipe given is from my first cookbook, Puerto Rican Cuisine in America (Avalon Books – Thunders Mouth Press)

CARRUCHO (Conch Meat)

3 pounds conch meat, cleaned
1/4 cup water
Juice of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons salt
8 whole black peppercorns
3 cloves garlic, peeled
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
3 tablespoons white vinegar
1/2 cup olive oil
2 medium onions, peeled and thinly sliced
2 medium ripe tomatoes, cut into wedges
1/4 cup pimento stuffed Spanish olives
1/8 teaspoon sage

1. Place cleaned conch in a bowl. Add 1/4 cup water and lemon juice and let stand for 10 minutes.
2. Remove conch meat to a heavy pot or kettle with water to cover. Add salt and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmered, covered, for 1 hour.
3. Drain and, when cool enough to handle, cut into small bite-sized pieces. Place in a serving bowl or casserole dish.
4. Crush peppercorns, garlic and oregano in a mortar. Mix with vinegar and olive oil. Add to conch meat.
5. Add onions, tomatoes and olives. Sprinkle with sage and toss well.
6. Cover and let stand for 30 minutes; and serve.
     Yield: 4 servings

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Real Barbecued Chicken


The Labor Day Holiday is upon us. So, before you put away the flip-flops and the old grill, here’s one more outdoor recipe. And what could be anymore American than barbecued chicken? By that I mean real barbecued chicken. One that uses, for once, your own barbecued sauce, not that crap sold in supermarkets and which is chock full of chemicals and “enhancers.” The thing is, barbecue sauce is very easy to make. When I ventured down South during my young manhood, everyone I met made their own sauce; and everyone had their own secret ingredient, whether it was a little bourbon whiskey put in to add a bit of dash, or some mesquite in the hot coals to give the meat some character.

The two sauces I give below use ingredients that can be easily found. No need to get fancy with some undefinable herb or spice. We keep it simple. The idea is to fix up the sauce, lather the chicken, grill quickly, and enjoy the farewell to summer with your mates and fellows.

BARBECUED CHICKEN

Sauce #1

1 tablespoon dry mustard
1 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon ground allspice
1/3 cup ketchup
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
3 tablespoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons butter
Juice of 1/2 lemon

Sauce #2

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger or 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 tablespoon dry mustard
1 tablespoon chili powder, or to taste
1/3 cup ketchup
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
3 tablespoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons butter
Juice of 1/2 lemon

1. Take one broiler chicken, about 2 1/2 pounds, and split it into two halves. Pound the chicken on a cutting board or flat surface with a mallet or the bottom of a skillet. This will ensure that the chicken lies flat and cooks more evenly on the grill.
2. Rub the chicken with salt, pepper, and oregano to taste; then rub all over with about 1/3 cup olive oil and two tablespoons red wine vinegar. Set aside.
3. Combine all the sauce ingredients in a small pan, and stir over moderate heat until blended.
4. Place chicken halves, skin side up on a heated gas grill or over hot coals. Brush the sauce over the skin side of the chicken and grill, without turning about 10 minutes. Turn and brush the other side. Continue cooking and basting every 5 to 10 minutes until the chicken is thoroughly cooked. Cooking time will depend on how hot the grill is and how close it is to the heat source. For faster cooking you may want the grill top closed.
Note: the recipe can be doubled if you want to grill 2 chickens.

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Cold Noodle Salads for Summer


We are still in the thick of it, kiddies. Me and my significant other were in cool, clear Vermont. But now we’re back in the city, the Apple, or as it has been referred to as of late, the Baked Apple. It’s been a hot, cruel summer. The only thing I look forward to is the free outdoor concerts in Central Park where you can have a good outdoor picnic while sipping a light wine. One of my favorite picnic dishes (and summer food) are cold noodle salads. They are easy to prepare, and delicious. Add some cold chicken, fruit, cheese, and good bottle of bubbly, and you’re set.

Almost any kind of pasta can be used for a cold noodle salad. My favorites, however, are oriental noodles. By that, I mean Japanese udon noodles, buckwheat noodles (soba), or fresh Chinese egg noodles. Below are given two recipes. One using soba noodles, and the other, Chinese noodles. If you don’t access to these, then any pasta noodles will do (linguini, angel hair, spaghetti, bucatini, perciatelli, etc.). The first recipe calls for hot sesame oil which can be found in any Asian or Oriental store.

#1: COLD NOODLES IN SESAME SAUCE

1 pound fresh, thin Chinese egg noodles
4 quarts water
2 tablespoons salt
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1/2 teaspoon hot sesame oil (if you really like your noodles very hot, then you can make it 1 teaspoon or more)
1 tablespoons regular sesame oil
1 tablespoon cider vinegar or white vinegar
1 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon peanut oil
1/2 cup toasted sesame seeds
6 scallions, cut into ringlets

1. Bring salted water to a boil, add noodles and cook for just 2 or 3 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold water.
2. Combine remaining ingredients and pour over noodles, tossing until well blended. Cool and chill, or serve at room temperature.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

#2: COLD JAPANESE NOODLES

1 pound Japanese noodles (udon or soba)
4 quarts water
2 tablespoons salt
2 tablespoons sesame oil
2 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon rice wine vinegar or white vinegar
1/4 teaspoon crushed red peppers (pepe rosso)
6 scallions, cut into ringlets
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1. Bring salted water to a boil and cook noodles about 4-5 minutes or until desired tenderness. Drain and rinse under cold running water.
2. In the same pot, heat together the sesame oil, soy sauce, vinegar, and red peppers. Add the noodles, and toss well until blended. Add the cilantro, cool and chill, or serve at room temperature.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings.

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Salad Time!

It’s hot as Hades out there, kiddies. Cooking is the last thing on your mind. The idea of lighting up that stove—ug! Even the old barbecue grill starts looking unappetizing. Still, we need sustenance. That means, salad time!—that ole stand-by. And by that I mean using fresh summer greens (with some canned stuff when needed. It doesn’t hurt).
Given below are given some quick and easy salad dishes. No cooking necessary. The recipes start from the simplest to a more substantial Salad Nicoise (which uses boiled eggs—and those you can get at the deli). Anyway, Here goes.

Basic Avocado Salad: Take one medium to large ripe avocado; peel, and cut into slices length-wise. Place on a serving plate, drizzle with olive oil and red-wine vinegar. Sprinkle with fresh or dried oregano, and a pinch of salt. That’s it. Serve with bread.

Cucumber Salad: In a salad bowl, place 1 cucumber, peeled and sliced thinly. In another smaller bowl, combine 2 tablespoons sugar; 2 tablespoons olive oil; 1/4 teaspoon salt; and 1 tablespoon white or red wine vinegar. Pour over cucumbers and marinate 15-20 minutes. You can serve the cukes as is or, to liven it up more, you can stir in 1/2 cup sour cream and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives.

Broccoli Salad: In a large salad bowl, combine 2 pounds fresh broccoli, washed, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces; 2 cups (8 ounces) shredded mozzarella cheese; and 1 medium red onion, sliced thinly. In another smaller bowl combine 1 cup mayonnaise; 2 tablespoons sugar; and 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar. Add to salad and toss to coat.

Veggie Salad: In a bowl, mix one head cauliflower, broken into florets; 1 head lettuce, washed and dried thoroughly; one medium red onion, sliced thin; and one cup fresh or frozen peas. In another smaller bowl, combine 2 cups mayonnaise; 2 tablespoons sugar; 1/3 cup Parmesan cheese; 1/4 teaspoon salt; and 2 teaspoons white vinegar. Pour over salad and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least one hour before serving.

Green Salad: Rinse and drain well one head Bibb lettuce, 1 bunch fresh spinach, 1 bunch escarole lettuce, and 1 bunch endive. Tear into bite-sized pieces and toss in a large salad bowl. In a blender or food processor combine 1/2 cup olive oil; 1/4 cup red wine vinegar; 2 tablespoons sugar; 1 teaspoon dry mustard; 1 teaspoon celery seed; and 4 ounces blue cheese, crumbled. Pour over salad greens and toss gently. If desired, you can garnish with cooked and crumbled bacon (if you can stand the idea of cooking anything).

String Bean Salad: Marinate overnight in half a cup white vinegar: one pound fresh or frozen green beans, and 1 cup black olives, with salt and pepper to taste. Next day, combine 1 cup sour cream; 1/2 cup mayonnaise; 2 tablespoons chopped chives; 1 teaspoon lemon juice; 1/4 teaspoon dry mustard; and 1 teaspoon horseradish. Drain beans and olives from marinade, and toss lightly with the dressing ingredients.

Three Bean Salad: In a mixing bowl, combine 1 can (16 ounces) garbanzo beans (chick peas), drained; 1 can (l6 ounces) red kidney beans, drained; 1 can (16 ounces) white Cannellini beans, drained. Add 1/2 cup prepared Italian dressing; 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar; 1 teaspoon Italian seasoning; 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Mix together and refrigerate 30 minutes for the flavors to blend. Drain and serve.

Salad Nicoise

1-2 heads Romaine or Boston lettuce, washed and drained
1 medium green pepper (pimento), slice thinly
1 red onion, sliced thinly
1 cucumber, peeled and sliced
12 cherry tomatoes, halved
3 hard boiled eggs, quartered
12 big or jumbo pitted olives
2 cans tuna fish (in water), drained and broken into chunks
1 (2-ounce) can anchovy fillets, drained and chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 teaspoon mustard (preferably dijon)
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1. Line a large salad bowl with the lettuce leaves.
2. Arrange the green pepper, onion, cucumber, cherry tomatoes, eggs, and olives, in groups on top of the lettuce. Put the tuna fish chunks in the middle.
3. In a small bowl, combine the anchovy fillets, garlic, mustard, olive oil and vinegar. Pour over the salad, cover and chill for 30 minutes.

There you have it. Some traditional, and not so traditional salad dishes. If nothing still gets you, then just make some ripe tomato sandwiches with mustard and mayo on sliced bread. My mom use to do this during the summers back in East Harlem, and we loved the suckers.

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Cooking with Wine – Part II (Marinades)


Using wine to marinate foods has long been a tradition in cooking. When we think of a marinade, we think of meat. And wine is perfect for it. It tenderizes the meat, gives body and strength to its texture and, at the same time, enhances the flavor. This works well with the less tender cuts of meat (i.e. cheaper cuts) and even game meats such as venison.

It is considered that the use of marinades began in the old sailing days. Sailors would use wines and spirits as marinades to preserve their meats. Otherwise a mariner would be eating rotten meat for the extended voyage. In time this process was taken up by landlubbers. Marinating is a simple enough procedure. The meat is placed in an enamel or glass container, then you add the wine and spices. The meat is turned every few hours until the marinade does its work. These days the meat is kept in the refrigerator.

Try the marinated beef recipe given below. You’d be surprised how an inexpensive cut of meat can reach such glorious heights.

BEEF IN MARINADE

Marinade ingredients:

2 1/2 pounds boneless chuck steak
2 cups dry red wine
1 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
3 cloves garlic, crushed
1 small onion, sliced
4 bay leaves
1 teaspoon fresh thyme or 1/4 teaspoon dried
4 sprigs parsley
10 whole black peppercorns

Cooking ingredients:

4 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
1/8 teaspoons ginger
1 tablespoon cornstarch

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
2. In a deep glass or enamel bowl combine the marinade ingredients. Place the meat in the bowl and cover with a lid or aluminum foil. Allow the beef to marinate for approximately 12 hours, turning two or three times.
2. Remove beef from marinade and dry on paper towels.
3. Heat three tablespoons of butter and the olive oil in a casserole or Dutch oven pot, and brown the meat on both sides over medium heat.
4. Strain the marinade and add to the beef. Place in oven and bake for 2 hours or until meat is tender.
5. Remove meat from casserole and boil marinade over high heat until the liquid is reduced to one cup. Dissolve the cornstarch in 2 tablespoons water and add to the marinade. Stir until thicken. Add ginger, salt, pepper, and swirl in the remaining tablespoon of butter.
6. Slice meat at an angle and serve with the sauce. This dish is good with dumplings or boiled potatoes.
Yield: 6-8 servings.

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Summer Salad


Waning days of summer, but it’s still hot out there. Cooking is the last thing on your mind. So how about a nice summer salad? Unfortunately, some of us do not know how to make a nice summer salad. I am not an expert at this but, through trial and error, I’ve configured what I consider to be a fairly reasonable salad dish. Given the cheese used, it can be called a French summer salad (if using chervre cheese), a Spanish summer salad (if using manchego cheese), an American summer ad (if using a sharp cheddar), a British salad (if using stilton), or a Greek salad (if using feta cheese). In fact, you can garnish it with whatever ingredients you want.

BASIC SUMMER SALAD

4 tablespoons olive oil

3 tablespoon red wine vinegar

2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

1 teaspoon dried oregano

Salt to and ground black pepper to taste

1 head lettuce (can use romaine, chicory, red leaf. etc. or, if you prefer, fresh spinach)
1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes, halved
1 1/2 cups cheese, crumbled, sliced or diced
1 small red onion, halved and thinly sliced
1 Green or red bell pepper, sliced
1 seedless cucumber, halved and thinly sliced
1/2 cup black, pitted olives

1. In a small bowl, combine olive oil, vinegar, garlic and oregano.
2. Season with salt and pepper.
3. In a large bowl, add remaining ingredients, and drizzle oil dressing over it.
4. Toss and serve.
Yield: 4 servings.

By the way, if you’re a fan of Caribbean Jerk Chicken, like I am; there’s a scrumptuous recipe for Jerk Chicken with Lime and Potato Wedges at http://bcukrecipes.blog.co.uk/

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Summer Dishes

AioliImage via Wikipedia

Mid-August and it’s sizzling out there. This is no time for elaborate meals and dinners. We want something fast, nutritious and cool. Below are some quick summer dishes one can create in minutes. All dishes should be served at room temperature.

Mushroom Salad: Wash and clean a bunch of mushrooms (about 1-2 pounds—you can choose whatever you want: white mushrooms, criminis, portabellos, etc.); cut in half or quarter any large ones. Steam about 5 minutes. While still warm, toss with sliced shallots or onions; add olive oil, minced garlic, ground black pepper, coriander, chopped fresh cilantro, and red wine vinegar.

Combination Beans: Combine cooked or canned beans, drained. You can mix any variety: black beans, red beans, chickpeas, etc. Add diced red and green pimentos, and a minced jalepeno or tabasco pepper (make sure you remove seeds). Season with juice from one lime, chopped marjoram, oregano and ground black pepper to taste.

Horta (a seasoned salad): Steam or poach two pounds of dark leafy greens (spinach, collards, kale, etc.). Drain, cool, squeeze dry and chop coarsely. Add olive oil, oregano, ground black pepper, and fresh lemon juice to taste.

Basic Green Salad: Wash and cut plum tomatoes into slices. Lay in a circle on a big plate with mixed greens, black olives cut in half, and cubes of goat cheese (preferably manchego—if you can get it). Season with ground black pepper, salt and oregano. Drizzle with red wine vinegar and olive oil. Garnish with a sliced boiled egg.

Aioli is a sauce popular in Provence that’s served with seafood, shellfish, boiled eggs, and potatoes. In a blender or food processor, blend 3 cloves peeled garlic, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 2 tablespoons olive oil until creamy and smooth. Transfer to a bowl (preferably wood), and very slowly add 3/4 olive oil, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until mixture thickens. Traditional Aioli included a raw egg, but nowadays that’s not recommended due to health reasons.

Whichever recipe you prefer, enjoy. Or you can try making up your own summer snack. The possibilities are endless.

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